Buenos Aires from a Researcher Who Works in the Sticks

Foreword and Disclaimers

I have an odd relationship with Buenos Aires. You'd expect the guy that's spent multiple years on projects in Argentina and spent about 20% of his marriage there to have a really good sense of the biggest and most important city in Argentina, but I really don't. I've spent far more time in the backwaters of rural Argentina with the townsfolk and guachos than I've spent in the city talking with the local porteños.

I've actually only spent about a week in total in the el centro or el capital as it's often referred to. Oddly enough, I've spent nearly twice as much time in the rather unassuming town of Ameghino, with an underwhelming population of 12,000 people and located in the far reaches of the Buenos Aires Province. But, as a true Kansan, I tend to enjoy my time in the rural parts of Argentina more than the very bustling center of the country.

Nonetheless, with familial connections and friends on X, I've been able to make the most of these short trips and experience a lot. Below, I'll share my personal insights along with a handful of locations highly recommended by friends and family!

The post is broken down into neighborhoods/areas around the capital and are listed in no particular order. My 'have to' activities are marked with an asterisk (*) at the beginning. The names are listed with short explanations and links to maps where possible to help you mark and plan your trip!

Buen viaje, che!

Palermo

The Soho or Hyde Park of Buenos Aires - the cool, up-scale neighborhood that has ample food opportunities. Overall, very safe area.

• *PICSA - Best Pizza (Classic Argentine Style) - Fugazza con Queso https://maps.app.goo.gl/7ioAzfBNmN7UhjHP8

• *Parque el Rosedal - Nice park - https://maps.app.goo.gl/X6XCNUK632Crc23NA

• Alchemy - Ice cream - https://maps.app.goo.gl/21C1AJwkEc1XLdJCA

• Japanese Garden - Haven't been but heard it's nice - https://maps.app.goo.gl/DXLgZGdjMRRTPEaAA

• Parrilla Don Julio - Popular steakhouse - https://maps.app.goo.gl/zzkor8pmkwSttA7s8

• Ivan Juan - Ukrainian/Russian cafe opened by refugees escaping the war - https://maps.app.goo.gl/qtWaugpyfA4VxLe36

• Buenos Aires Ecoparque - Public park/zoo with free roaming and enclosed animals - https://maps.app.goo.gl/S16yVEtNewHnsV9JA

• Embajadas - Lots of embassies are located in the neighborhoods between Palermo and Recoleta, pretty area where it's fun to walk around and test your flag knowledge

Recoleta

One of the most famous neighborhoods due to the large cemetery. There's a nice market throughout the week with art and other vendors. Overall safe, at night increased chance of robbery. Near Retiro be especially conscious. Do not go north of the train station.

• Biblioteca Nacional Mariano Moreno - Don't need to go in, but interesting to look at - https://maps.app.goo.gl/DXLgZGdjMRRTPEaAA

• Plaza Oriental Republic of Uruguay - Plaza amidst the Recoleta/Palermo Parks - https://maps.app.goo.gl/zJ1sk79bw9WZytqi6

• Monument to Bartolomé Mitre - Cool momument on a hill - https://maps.app.goo.gl/gU9RecBmQV8JjZAA6

• Puente peatonal Dr. Alfredo Roque Vítolo - Cool Bridge w/ view of law school - https://maps.app.goo.gl/TooW494Qr4JwBsCTA

• *Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar - Basicilica near Cemetery - https://maps.app.goo.gl/A4dtpKBarbm4RMpQA

• *Recoleta Cemetery - Classic Recoleta Cemetery - https://maps.app.goo.gl/DPRunG9MhSnDnFjZ8

• La Parolaccia Recoleta - Famous/Expensive Italian Restaurant - https://maps.app.goo.gl/9jmwiHr22Q6rTdaXA

• *El Ateneo Grand Splendid - Old Theatre changed to book store - https://maps.app.goo.gl/Uu2GZqVwL9kkQW7U7

• *Nunciatura Apostólica - Prettiest part of Recoleta - https://maps.app.goo.gl/FCuUz8Ap1jokP44n6

• Pampero Tienda Oficial Recoleta - Store for Souvenirs - https://maps.app.goo.gl/6FLMUV4NK59vCudc6

• El Burladero - Spanish Restaurante we've heard good things about - https://maps.app.goo.gl/DubnS8J9WTNSAKqD7

• Plaza General San Martín - Nice Plaza with Torre Ingles (near Retiro so watch yourself) - https://maps.app.goo.gl/EX5smyaQi4b8DD93A

El Capital

This is the government and commercial district. Overall safe, but check reports about protests that can make the area unsafe/impossible to get across. Watch for pickpockets in plazas near Congress and Casa Rosada.

• *Museo del Agua y de la Historia Sanitaria - Nicest water pumping station in the world, worth the walk to look at the outside - https://maps.app.goo.gl/JAEsDQkA9s4whP6eA

• Iglesia del Salvador - Nice mosaic and view from outside - https://maps.app.goo.gl/vwbdrD8Wqhk8TM4C7

• Talabartería Arandu - Store for Souvenirs - https://maps.app.goo.gl/bKZgLsyjarUKDDzH6

• Teatro Colon - Need to See outside, tour optional - https://maps.app.goo.gl/2C7cnRLTzXkujsbC7

• CHS BURGER - Can order a literal bucket of burgers - https://maps.app.goo.gl/UFwyc4zNCdoSY1CMA

• Pizzería Güerrín - Another classical Argentine Pizza place - https://maps.app.goo.gl/8RsU2TpPbVzJWLAc9

• Obelisco - Main location in centro, worth a photo - https://maps.app.goo.gl/QJwaedFwn2w5d4zb6

• *Confitería Ideal - Get the Tea Ideal and enjoy a full tea - https://maps.app.goo.gl/AtLSAhZhRtUqJhAj9

• St. Catalina de Siena Church - Convent with restaurant (go to see Galerias Pacific and Centro Naval if you come here) - https://maps.app.goo.gl/GwzfzkZwd8FsM4PN9

• *Casa Rosada - White house of Argentina, painted with cow blood - https://maps.app.goo.gl/BeEtkBv5fWV17WGq6

• *Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral - National Cathedral - https://maps.app.goo.gl/9LiTUTSGVf2btyEE9

• *Parroquia San Ignacio de Loyola - Colonial Church - https://maps.app.goo.gl/CG9bgC9jsNxZ9CxMA

• Calle Corrientes (See Pizzeria Guerrin) - Broadway of Argentina

• Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Piedad - Baroque Style Church - https://maps.app.goo.gl/tcyujdY8YW8NC9Pd7

• *Convento Santo Domingo - Basílica Nuestra Señora del Rosario de la Defensa y Reconquista de Buenos Aires - Military Chapel of Argentina and has cannonballs of British invasion in tower - https://maps.app.goo.gl/zi3ferSTXJV6K4X6A

• *Palacio Barolo and Salon 1923 - Business building designed around Dante's Inferno, Cocktail lounge on rooftop balcony (go wtih Terazzo Congresso if you can, RESERVATIONS REQUIRED min 1 week in advance) - https://maps.app.goo.gl/YfiraQRcwyuTSvZ68

• Congreso de la Nación Argentina - Congress of Argentina - https://maps.app.goo.gl/GxSc8MXTf49unovv5

• El Molino Patisserie - Pretty building next to Congress - https://maps.app.goo.gl/wBhf41uKh2DayZrS9

Puerto Madero

Recent development on BA's old port. Dominated by tech companies, a private university, and upscale businesses that connects to a nature park on the artificial created islands built to protect BA from invasion and the sea. Very safe area.

• Puente de la Mujer - Cool pedestrian bridge - https://maps.app.goo.gl/SkLQ7y1MF12hee7g9

• Buque Museo Fragata A.R.A. "Presidente Sarmiento" - Old ship that's cool to look at - https://maps.app.goo.gl/dMYZr1ZM5QThfc2G9

• Generally the port area is nice to walk around and explore

• Palacio Libertad, Centro Cultural Domingo Faustino Sarmiento - A redone building that has classical Argentine influenced French architecture - https://maps.app.goo.gl/Vm4Di6RThqiYShKk6

• Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur - Nature reserve to give a reprieve from the city - https://maps.app.goo.gl/6NfcTkHCnArpenSs9

San Telmo

The Tango Center of the World and one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Overall safe during the day, wouldn't go at night.

• Plaza Dorrego - Tango Plaza - https://maps.app.goo.gl/oWNbCRmr8ywUB3z18

• Calle Defensa - Main strip, lots of little offshoot alleys

• El Zanjón de Granados - Old building restored to a museum with guided tours about the history of the neighborhood - https://maps.app.goo.gl/1A5W2zkurqq4i38PA

Boca

A painted neighborhood south of the center. Take a taxi here and a taxi back. Not just for distance, the neighborhoods south of San Elmo are quite rough. Even 2 blocks outside of the main Boca area is a bit risky. Do not go at night.

• La Boca - A colorfully painted set of streets with lots of tourist shops and the like - https://maps.app.goo.gl/RZwHZRBGGnstfcSi9